Thursday, January 5, 2017

Day 6 was on the 21st December 2016 and it was raining.

Day 6 was on the 21st December 2016 and it was raining. We started the day by packing, again, and loading a large pink teddy bear into a minibus for our journey to NingYuan. We needed to stop at the civil affairs office in ChangSha to obtain a permit to visit the welfare institute. We had been to this office before, it was the place where our daughter was handed to us on the 26th of February 2007.
This is where Chris came into his own, he had booked the appointment and rung the night before to remind the office we were coming, he steered the staff, as soon as we arrived, into filling out the form and getting the all important stamp. It just remained to hand over the 900¥and we were ready to go, but the familiarity of the building stopped us from leaving. I asked if we could see the room where we sat waiting for our daughter to arrive, where we finally became four. Without question we were guided into an all too familiar room and sat in the same chair looking into the expanse of a now cavernous and quiet space. We viewed pictures of children on the wall and were given warm water to drink and as we left the morning exercise routine for the staff began and the door closed behind us.



The journey to NingYuan took about five hours and cost 4000¥, a very expensive trip but it was the only way to get to the back of beyond and the principal destination of our trip. The weather changed and the sky slowly cleared, the dirty streets of ChangSha became an almost Scotland like countryside, beautiful houses, rolling hills and terraced fields, with lakes and rivers. The most noticeable feature though was the soil, it was a deep rich red, and Chris told us it was good for growing spices and tobacco. It was not until we reached NingYuan that the concrete began again.

The hotel was the Yong Shun holiday hotel and right off the bat we knew it was 'not the Dalton', but it was what it was and we were not here to be pampered. However the banging music up to midnight and the semi clad ladies on the calling cards slipped under the door gave us a clue as to the primary business of this establishment. The windows did not fit the frames and the bedding, although clean, had seen better days.



Chris informed us the director of the welfare institute had organised an evening meal in a local restaurant, so we decided to take a walk beforehand to explore our daughters place of origin, we were the only non Chinese in town. We followed the main road down to the Leng Jiang and watched the river flow by. A man sat washing his vegetables in the flowing river, which initially looked nice, but as we walked upstream and came across an open sewer emptying into the river, it took on a rather different meaning. So we distracted ourselves by admiring a pagoda and playing on the exercise machines on the way back.

The evening meal was huge and six people turned up plus another child, so we were eleven. The director was a small but amiable man, I think a nephew of his was next to him, curiously holding a jerrycan, a stern lay who turned out to be the assistant director of the local civil affairs office, three other ladies and the child. One of these ladies was presented as our daughter's orphanage mother, but more about her later. My feelings of distance began to disappear and we were presented as a family and our daughter was among her own, a child of Húnán.

I was my usual sceptical self, but it was hard to maintain, especially when the jerrycan came into its own as it contained the local hooch and faces began to flush and the talk got louder. I tried to say a few words in Chinese, I know what I wanted to say but who knows how it came out! It was then I realized we were seeing Chinese culture at its finest, food and family. I felt jealous and then sad, as it became clear I had brought many preconceptions to this meal, all of which were wrong.

The only downer was a large plated fish was presented mid banquet and I was told we were very honored as this was a rare local river fish. Our animal welfare roots made it difficult to accept this gift but having visited the local river made it harder to eat.

The director paid for the meal and we arranged to do the same the following night but we would pay to return the gift they had given us that night.

It was interesting to see Chris with a flushed face wobble happily from the restaurant.



第6天是2016年12月21日,下雨。我们再次背起行囊,和把一个大的粉红色泰迪熊装入一辆小巴,今天我们要去宁远。我们必须停在长沙民政办公室,获得访问福利院的许可。我们以前去过这个办公室,这是在2007年2月26日他们把我们的女儿交给我们的地方。

这是克里斯来到自己的地方,他已经预约好了,并在前一天晚上打电话提醒他们说,我们会来到办公室,他指导工作人员,一旦我们到达,填妥表格,获得所有重要的图章。这只须缴交900元人民币,我们准备去福利院,但熟悉的建筑阻止我们离开。我问他们,我们是否可以参观坐在那里等待我们的女儿到达的房间,那是我们终于变成了四个人的地方。毫无疑问地,我们被带领进到那个很熟悉的房间,坐在同一把椅子,看着一个现在篓空和安静的空间。我们看到墙上的孩子们的照片,并给我们一杯温水喝,当我们离开后工作人员的日常晨练才开始,大门也在我们离开后关上。

到宁远的旅程花了大约五个小时,费用4000元,一次非常昂贵的旅行,但它是唯一要到偏远的地方的办法,这是我们这次旅行的主要目的地。天气变了,天空慢慢地清了,从长沙肮脏的街道几乎变成像苏格兰农村,美丽的房子,连绵起伏的丘陵和梯田,湖泊和河流。最明显的特征是土壤,它是一种深红色,克里斯告诉我们,这对于种植香料和烟草是很好的。直到我们到达宁远,才又看到混凝土。

酒店是永舜度假酒店,我们马上就知道这不是道尔顿,但它是什么,我们不是来这里享受的。然而,直到午夜还有轰隆的音乐声,以及可看到一些半裸女士的名片滑落在门下,这给我们提供了关于这家店主要业务的线索。窗户不是很合窗框,床上用品还算干净,但尚可过个几天。

克里斯告诉我们,今晚福利院主任在当地的一家餐馆组织了一顿晚餐,所以我们决定事先散步去,探索我们女儿的出生地,我们是城里唯一的非中国人。我们沿着主干道走到冷江路,顺着河流看去。一个人在流动的河水里坐着洗他的蔬菜,最初看起来不错,但当我们向上游走去,看到一个开放的下水道直接排放到河里,这呈现了相当不同的意义。所以在回来的路上,我们藉着欣赏一座宝塔和玩着运动器具,来分散我们自己的注意力。

晚餐是盛大的,六个人出现再加上一个孩子,加上我们十一个人。主任是一个身高不高但很亲切的人,我认为他的侄子在他旁边,他好奇地拿着罐子,一位严肃的女士,原来是当地民政办公室副主任,其他三个女士和孩子。其中一个女士是代表我们女儿的孤儿院母亲,以后会提到更多关于她。我的距离感开始消失,我们被当作一个家庭介绍我们,而我们女儿则是代表她自己,一个湖南的孩子。

我是我通常怀疑自己,但很难维持,尤其是宴席中他们喝了点酒,加上一喝立即就脸红的当地烈酒和更大声谈话,这样让我放松了不少。我试着说几句中文,我知道我想说什么,但谁知道它是怎么出来的!就在那时我意识到我们正看到中国文化的最高境界-食物和家庭,我感到嫉妒,然后难过,因为很明显地,我先前对于这顿饭,已有先入为主的成见,但所有这一切都错了。

唯一令人沮丧的是一大盘的鱼呈现在宴会中,并告诉我们,这是非常荣幸地以一条当地河里罕见的鱼招待我们。使得身为动物保护成员的我们很难接受这种礼物,尤其看过了当地的河流,使得我们吃起来更加困难。

主任付了这顿饭钱,我们安排在第二天晚上回请他们,以回报他们那天晚上招待我们。

有趣的是,看到克里斯红着的脸从餐厅里快乐地摇晃走出来。


Wednesday, January 4, 2017

10 years ago

On the 25th February 2007 we flew from BeiJing to ChangSha and settled into the Dalton hotel, this was our first visit. I can only look back at my notes from that time as the specifics have faded and they read as follows:

26th February 2007 - breakfast was a nervous affair, tables of worried parents picked nervously at their food, we were among them. The evening meal was very different as we had a hungry little girl hell bent on eating everything.

She cried and cried to begin with and who could have blamed her, she was suddenly moved from the familiar to the unfamiliar. She was packed in three layers of clothes and placed in the arms of strangers, bundled onto a coach and whisked away. I stripped off some of her clothes on the coach, as the perspiration was dripping from her head, and opened a window to allow some air to enter into her new life.

It is such a privilege to be a parent and we are privileged to welcome our new daughter into our lives. Part of today was frightening and I was resentful of the mechanical conveyor-belt-like handover. It did not detract from the immediate desire to look after this child, to hold her, to reassure her, to make her life better. The feeling of bond and love was undeniable, she was our daughter, biological or not. I had not expected this quite so soon, but here we were, three were now four.

Our son, who was seven at the time had isolated and cried a lot, he burst today and said 'I have been waiting for two years'. We involved him in many of the chores when we returned to the Dalton, bathing, feeding and entertaining. I was sure he would be a good big brother.

27th February 2007 - in the pool, communicating with no common language, walking, laughing, the brother and sister dynamic, and ChangSha in the rain.

28th February 2007 - brought a stroller from Walmart and went swimming before breakfast.

The 'clothes police' caught us on the street, Chinese women of a certain age who 'know better', sat and made as if cold whilst we were on our way to the park. They dress their babies as if it were arctic conditions and chastise anyone who does otherwise.

1st March 2007 - our daughter was doing very well and her ability to adapt was outstanding. She did poo on the carpet, but hey, nobody's perfect! She was walking and vocalizing well and the brother/sister rapport was going well.

I think it was worth mentioning these notes as it helps put the visit to ChangSha into context, especially the hotel, pool and Walmart. What we did not do or see on the first visit was the orphanage and that was where we were off to next.

Tuesday, January 3, 2017

Day 5 was the 20th December 2016

Day 5 was the 20th December 2016 and today was not only the transit from SuZhou to ChangSha but also the end of the first part of our trip. We had wanted to see and enjoy China but we knew there was a business element and that started now. I was happy to come to China but it was our daughters choice to return to the orphanage she came from, the area of China her biological family came from and the people who would recognize her as 湖南人 - Húnán rén - a person from Hunan province.


Now, to help understand why I post as 'the village idiot' it needs to be understood that whilst I know Hú means lake and Nán means south, I had not realized Húnán meant to the south of the lake. I took a much wiser Taiwanese man to point that fact out! With 湖北 being the province to the north of the lake, as 北 - běi - means north. For interest the lake in question is DongTing on the Yángzǐjiāng - or Yangtze river.
Today we were again travelling by train and this was a much longer journey; some five hours. So we packed up, took a taxi to SuZhou north station and waiting in a very crowded waiting room for an hour. Snacks and coke arrived and we watched rush hour SuZhou, I did not use the station toilet but those who did returned with the 1000 mile stare!
The journey was literally fast, with the train exceeding 305 kph. A little sign at the end of the carriage kept us informed of the time, the speed and the next station and I followed our journey on a map of China. We passed through Nánjīng and before we knew it the train stopped at it's terminal station ChangSha - Zhǎngshā - 长沙.
We were now in Húnán and we got down to business straight away, the taxi took us to Walmart. I have been to the Walmart in ChangSha before, ten years ago give or take a few weeks, to buy a new stroller for our newly adopted daughter. This visit was courtesy of my family who had foregone Christmas presents to allow us to donate some gifts to the welfare institute as a bigger gift to begin the process of saying thank you for our beautiful daughter, niece, cousin and grand daughter.
Walmart looked and felt the same, small live animals swam around in tanks awaiting their fate, piles of unfamiliar food packages graced every corner and clothing with odd western slogans hung from racks. I do not know who makes up the slogans but they really need a few lessons in English. We purchased sweets, clothes, blankets, books, hot water bottles and an enormous pink teddy bear. We had brought some gifts from the UK, donated by my wife's friends and colleagues, to add to this pile, so all in all we had a substantial, and to us meaningful, gift to take with us.
As a footnote, thank you all for foregoing a Christmas present and/or donating to this, it really had a special resonance when we handed this lot over.
I also had been given a watch from my father and we managed to get a replacement battery in Walmart, this was destined as a gift for the director of the institute. Chris asked me how much it cost but I did not know, so in true Chinese fashion he asked the watchmaker and a smile appeared on his face, 'This is a very generous gift' Chris said staring at the watch.
We packed everything in the taxi and headed to the Dalton, again a familiar place from our first visit. We checked in to this resplendent hotel and sat looking at our pile of 'stuff' stacked in our room. We packed it up had some tea, donned our swimming costumes and headed for the pool. A pool we had rather cruelly plonked our daughter in ten years before, with her new big nosed parents, and expected her to enjoy herself. We did exactly the same things, we played 'sea horse' and splashed around and I felt as though no time had passed at all, the same laugh rang around the hollow space.
The sauna was also the same, so off I went, inside were a couple of ladies and a young girl, and she made a comment, in Chinese, about my belly. I understood and patted my belly and replied in Chinese. She stood wide eyed and then started rattling off questions to her mother. My wife and daughter came in and, in Chinese, I introduced then as such. The lady next to me spoke in English and I tried to respond in Chinese, I was communicating in Mandarin, it worked and it felt amazing.
The young girl latched onto our daughter and almost immediately began to call her Jiejie or older sister. It was right there and then she looked and felt truly Chinese, she initially looked bewildered and I had to answer some quick fire questions. I cannot imagine how that must have felt, whether it was amazing, scary or both. Either way I could see on her face that the reality of the situation had hit home, she was home. And, our daughter spoke, a little, Mandarin, in a meaningful way, that made her dad very proud.
I can hypothesize all I like as to what this will mean, I do not know if this is a gift or will become a problem as she gets older. I know there will be more questions, questions I have no answers for. How will we ever know, I guess you will need to ask her in 50 years time. But here we were among her Húnán family. The China she could not remember was now staring at her, asking her questions, she now needed to take the reigns and lead her parents on the next part of this journey.
I might be over dramatizing but in my journal I wrote: home, not home - family, not family - people, not people - country, not country. I think I know what I meant but now I am not so sure.


第5天是2016年12月20日,今天不仅是从苏州到长沙,也是我们旅行的第一部分结束。我们本来想看看以及享受中国之旅,但我们知道那里还有一些正事要做,而且从现在开始,我很高兴来到中国,而这是我们女儿选择回到她来自的孤儿院,她原生家庭的中国地区,和认得她是湖南人的湖南省人。

现在我来说明帮助你了解,为什么我以'村庄愚人'发文,这需要被理解的是,虽然我知道”湖南”的湖指的是湖,”湖南”的南是南方的意思,但我没有意识到”湖南”意味着在湖的南部。 我从一个更聪明的台湾人那里知道! 湖北是湖的北方的省,有趣的是这个湖是在长江上游的洞庭湖。

今天,我们再次乘火车旅行,这是一个更长的旅程; 大约五个小时。 所以我们打包收拾好行李,坐出租车到苏州北站,在一个非常拥挤的候车室等了一个小时。 卖小吃和可乐的经过我们,我们看到苏州忙碌的高峰时间,我没有使用车站厕所,但由他们从厕所回来时目瞪口呆的眼神就知道!

这个旅程真的很快,火车超过每小时305公里。在车厢后面有一个小显示器(跑马灯)让我们知道时间、速度和下一站,我在中国地图上对照我们的旅程。我们通过南京,我们知道火车将停在它的终点站长沙。

我们现在在湖南,一下火车我们立即就开始进行我们的正事,出租车把我们带到了沃尔玛。 我去过长沙的沃尔玛,大概就在十年前这个时候的前后几个星期左右,为我们新收养的女儿买了一辆新的婴儿车。这次拜访带来了我家人的心意,在仪式一开始时,为感谢你们给了我们一个美丽的女儿、侄女、堂妹和孙女,他们放弃了他们的圣诞礼物,让我们能够捐一些礼物给福利院,当作一个更大的礼物。

沃尔玛看起来和感觉中的一样,在那里可看到,活生生的小动物在槽里游着等待他们的命运,成堆的不熟悉的食物包装堆放在每个角落,还有一些带有奇怪的西方标语的衣服挂在架子上。我不知道那是谁作的标语,但他们真的需要加强他们的英文。我们购买了糖果,衣服,毯子,书籍,热水瓶和一个巨大的粉红色的玩具熊。我们从英国带来了一些礼物,由我妻子的朋友和同事捐赠,再加这一堆,所以总言而之,我们带来一些实质需要的物品,也带来了对我们有意义的礼物。

附注,感谢大家前述的圣诞礼物或捐赠,当我们转交这些礼物时,这真的有着特殊的共鸣。

我的父亲也给了我一个手表,我们设法在沃尔玛更换电池,这是指定送给福利院主任的礼物。 克里斯问我花了多少钱,但我不知道,因此以真正中国人的做法,在他问过钟表师后,克里斯盯着手表,他的脸上露出笑容地说,“这是一个非常慷慨的礼物”。

我们把所有的东西放在出租车里,然后直往道尔顿,这是我们第一次来住过熟悉的地方。 我们入住这家金碧辉煌的酒店,我们正坐看着堆在我们房间里的东西。 我们打包好,喝了点茶,穿上我们的游泳衣,去游泳池游泳。在十年前我们相当残忍地将我们的女儿放到游泳池,与她新的大鼻子父母一起,并期望她自娱自乐。 我们的确做了完全相同的事情,我们玩起“海马”,四处溅起水花,我感觉好像时间一点也没有过去,同样的笑声回荡在空荡荡的空间。

桑拿也是一样的,我去过那里,里面有几个女士和一个年轻的女孩,她用中文对我的肚子做了一个评论,我了解并拍拍我的肚子,用中文回答。她睁大眼睛,然后一口气问了她妈妈一些问题。我的妻子和女儿进来了,我用中文介绍。在我旁边的那个女士用英语说话,我试着用中文回答,我可以用普通话沟通,这感觉很好。

年轻的女孩紧跟着我们的女儿,几乎一开始就叫她姐姐。就在那里,那时她看起来像是真正的中国人,一开始她看起来手足无措,我不得不回答一些一连串的问题。 我无法想象这是什么感觉,无论是惊讶,害怕或两者都有。无论哪种方式,我可以从她的脸上看出来,事实上她已经回家了。而且,我们的女儿以有意义的方式说了一点普通话,这使得作为她老爸的我非常自豪。

我可以假设所有我想要的,但至于这将会如何,当她年纪渐长时,我不知道这是否是一个礼物,或将变成一个问题。我知道会有更多的问题,问题是我没有答案。我们怎么会知道,我猜你将需要在50年后问她。但是在这里,我们是她的湖南家人。她不记得的中国现在正盯着她,问她问题,她现在需要自行去掌握,以及带领她的父母走接下来的旅程。

我可能过度戏剧化,但在我的日志我写道:家,不是家- 家人,不是家人 - 人,也不是人 - 国家,也不是国家。我想我知道我的意思,但现在我不太确定。

Monday, January 2, 2017

WiFi

Communication home from within China was mainly by email as most of the hotels had free WiFi. I was warned, and it was wholly accurate, that access to Google, Twitter and the likes of Facebook was difficult, if not impossible. As I am a Google user I was forced to use and old AOL address and this proved an effective way to communicate. Downloading pictures was limited but again with perseverance we managed to keep the family and friends up to speed with our trip. The internet search options on my devices was changed to Yahoo and this allowed some searching to be performed. The locals seemed to be using VPN options but I stayed with the simple stuff I knew.

I did take a large number of photographs and as with digital photography deleted many as I went, but can only recommend take plenty of the explanatory signs as they help with memories and understanding in the quieter moments. I learned a great deal from doing this as we often got caught in the wave of people and information was missed.



This was not the case in Hong Kong where everything went back to normal.

在中国国内和家人的联系主要是用电子邮件,因为大多数酒店有免费的WiFi。,有人警告我说,访问谷歌,Twitter和Facebook之类的是很困难的,这是完全正确的。但这也不是不可能的,由于我是Google用户,我被迫使用旧的AOL地址,证明这是一种有效的沟通方式。下载图片是被限制的,但一再坚持想办法让我们在旅程中和家人、朋友们保持联系,我的手机的网络搜索选项被更改成Yahoo,这可允许执行一些搜索。 当地人似乎使用VPN选项,但是我仍使用我所知道的简单东西。

当我走过的地方,我拍了很多的照片和数位摄影,也删除了许多,我只能建议必须做许多的标注,帮助你在安静的时刻回忆和搞清楚照片。我从做这件事学到很多,因为我们经常陷入人潮,信息被遗漏。

在香港情况并非如此,一切都恢复正常。

Day 4 was the 19th December 2016 - màn màn chī and chī bǎole

Day 4 was the 19th December 2016 and we were up early, packed, breakfasted and in a taxi to Shanghai train station for the 09.00 to SuZhou. The use of trains for the majority of internal travelling was a conscious decision to allow us to see a China we would not see from plane hopping. It turned out to be the right decision despite the concerns raised by many about the busy and chaotic stations.

The use of Gao Tie (fast trains) was also inspired making the longer journeys more manageable and allowing us to spend more time at the destinations of choice. Also at 39.5¥ each, for this journey, it made good financial sense. The benefits of having Chris along was he did the ordering, buying and initially the shepherding in the station, we just did the travelling. As time went on we became more confident and the chaos and interpretation of the platform and timing hoardings became easier.

The only issue on this journey was the use of a squat toilet on a moving train, need I say more?

We arrived at SuZhou and were plonked into a taxi and off we went to the Overseas Chinese hotel, as this was only for one night we did not unpack but just grabbed some tea and snacks and got straight back into another taxi to spend some time in a formal garden. It is worth mentioning we saw a Kingfisher perched on a tree in the hotel gardens, a rare treat for us and it felt quite auspicious.

Here I would like to add a little advice. The use of taxis were not really a luxury but a necessary mode of transport, during our visit we used tube or underground trains very effectively but taxis were plentiful and on the whole cheap. However, there are taxis and taxis, the SuZhou taxis we used to get to and from The Humble Administrator's garden were the latter. No seatbelts, a cage around the driver, noisy, smelly, fast to the point of risky and to our daughters disgust the driver wound down the window at one point and spat! Personally I thought it was fantastic!

The Humble Administrator's garden cost around 70¥for an adult and was a perfect antidote to the hustle and bustle we had experienced thus far. I sat in a formal tea house and drank green tea, another of my must do's in China, it was perfect. We walked around the gardens and although out of season it remained a glorious spectacle. There we lakes and swathes of bonsai, quintessentially Chinese buildings and architecture, paths and corridors through aromatic bushes and trees, sculptures and art. Chris seemed keen to get round and get to another garden but we wanted to enjoy one properly, so we slowed the pace and got him to sit with us in the sun as we wrote postcards home.



This caused a bit of a spectacle and some Chinese men gathered to watch this strange ritual, I managed to exchange some words and they seemed happy I was a bit of an English eccentric writing illegibly on pieces of card.

This was the first time I had had to reflect on our journey so far and I began to wonder how we were being viewed by the Chinese, odd I expect! I think to this point I had seen a busy, modern version of China, full of smog and bling, not the tea drinking philosophical version in my head. The divide was reinforced in the exploration of the food culture, we are eat and go people, the Chinese sit and eat for hours, talking, socializing, doing business, and drinking; more of that later. 

If there was one thing from today, it was I needed to focus more time and energy after our return on learning Mandarin properly, not just for me but to support our daughter in getting this essential language into her life. My use of this language was poor, I could get my meaning across but responses were hard to fathom and my blank stares were causing frustration. However my cultural understanding was improving rapidly, I could see the gaps but also the bridges.

I purchased a new tea mug on the way out. My concerns about it getting broken in transit were assuaged as the lady who sold it to me stood in it to show it strength. I was notably impressed!

My cash reserves were used up on our return to the hotel as we paid Chris for the train tickets for the whole trip and the days taxis. 

Shanghai to Suzhou was 133.5 for the three of us, SuZhou to ChangSha 1305 and Guilin to ShenZhen 636, plus a booking fee of 15 for each journey. Added to this was 200¥ plus 200¥plus 60¥ for taxis. 

I was now going to have to rely on the old credit card, again, more about that later!

第4天是2016年12月19日-慢慢吃和吃饱了

第4天是2016年12月19日,我们很早起,打包行李,吃完早餐,坐出租车到上海火车站搭09:00火车到苏州。我们大部分的国内旅游都坐火车,这是一项明智的决定,这样可以让我们看看中国,而不是只从飞机上跳瞰。尽管许多人建议我们必须考虑车站的繁忙和混乱,但事实证明这是正确的决定。

高铁(快速铁路)的运用也可以让旅行多一些弹性,时速到达300公里/小时使长途旅行更易于掌控,并让我们到目的地有更多的时间。此外每人39.5元,对这次旅程也很经济实惠。在我们旅途中有克里斯随行的好处,是他可以在车站协助预订车票、购物和引导,让我们可以纯粹享受旅行。随着时间的前进,我们变得越来越有自信,经由说明月台和车班时间显示板,这一切的混乱就变得更加容易一些。

在这旅程中唯一问题,是在行驶中的火车上使用蹲式的厕所,这需要我多说吗?

我们抵达苏州,坐进一辆出租车和然后直往华侨酒店,因为只住一晚,我们没有不要解开行李,只随意吃了一些茶点,又直接回到另一辆出租车,目的为了可多花点时间来看一座正式的园林。值得一提的是,我们看到一只翠鸟栖息在酒店花园的一棵树上,这对我们来说感到珍贵的是,它让人感觉很吉祥。

这里我想补充一点建议,使用出租车并不是为了奢华,而是一种交通需要,我们造访期间,使用捷运或搭乘地铁是非常有效率的,这里出租车很多,而且整体价格相当便宜。那里到处都是出租车,用来往返拙政园到苏州,不过我们坐上一辆较差的出租车。出租车里没有安全带,一个笼子把司机围在里面,嘈杂,臭,速度快到危险的地步,我们的女儿厌恶司机把车窗摇下一点向窗外吐痰!但我个人认为那才是真正的中国!

拙政园的门票一位成人要 70 元,对我们到目前为止所经历的熙熙攘攘,这是一种很完美解方(药)。另外一个我在中国所要做的事情,是坐在一个正式的茶馆喝着绿茶,这是很赞的。我们走在园林的周围,虽然是季节不对,但它仍然保持着极好的景色。那里我们可以欣赏湖景和大片的盆景、经典建筑物和结构、 小径、通往芳香灌木和树丛、 雕塑和艺术的走廊。克里斯似乎很想赶快逛完这一个到另一个园林,但我们完全想要慢慢享受一个园林,所以我们放慢脚步,当我们写明信片回家时,他和我们一起坐在阳光底下。

这造成了一点奇观,一些中国人聚集在一起观看这个奇怪的仪式,我设法与他们沟通,他们似乎很高兴地看着我,写一些难以辨认的歪斜英文字在几张卡片上。

这是第一次我不得不反思我们到目前为止的旅程,我开始想知道我们是怎么被中国人看待,我推想一定是奇特的!我认为在这点上我见过的中国,充满了烟雾和金光闪闪,繁忙的现代版本,而不是在我的脑海中饮茶哲学的版本。这鸿沟增强我在饮食文化的探索,我们算是吃得很快的人,但中国人一吃坐了几个小时,说话,社交,做生意和喝酒;或者更多。

如果有一件事从今天起要做,那就是在我们回家后需要集中更多的时间和精力在学习正确的普通话,不仅仅是为了我,而是为了支持我们的女儿,让这种基本的语言进入她的生活。我的普通话还不太好,我的意思可以被人理解,但别人的回应却让我难以捉摸,我茫然应对让我很挫折。然而我对文化的理解正迅速提升,我不但可以看到缺口,也看到如何通过的桥梁。

我在出来的路上买了一个新的茶杯。我担心它在运输过程中被打破了,但卖给我的那女士站在那里展现它的强度。我对它特别有印象 !

当我们回到酒店,支付克里斯我们整个行程的火车票和出租车的钱后,我的储备现金用完。

上海到苏州我们三个是人民币133.5元,苏州到长沙是1305元人民币和桂林到深圳是636 元人民币,加上每一次旅行预订费15 元。再加这些 200 元 + 200 元 + 60 元出租车钱。

现在我将不得不依靠旧的信用卡,随后会再说明!

Day 3 was the 18th December 2016

Day 3 was the 18th December 2016 and this was our full day in Shanghai. We started the day with a full breakfast, which was unrecognizable to your average English man. With fish, fruit, garlic/spiced beans, hot soya milk and crab spring rolls. The chopsticks were once again the preferred tools!

We left the hotel and walked to the Jing'An temple via the local park and although it may sound a bit clichéd I loved the park as it was full of people doing Tai Chi, Wing Chun and/or Qi Gong. It was difficult to differentiate for the uninitiated but just looked beautiful.

Jing'An was very familiar in its makeup but did have a giant lucky jade stone that had to be rubbed. The architecture was amazing and the history deep, having been relocated and renovated. The great bells, gongs, drums and statues were all worth seeing and we lit some incense to pray for a safe stay in China. It is however quite incongruous to see the old in such close proximity to the new buildings that surround it.



We then took the tube across town to the Bund and the HuangPu Jiang. Having had some family photos taken we walked down to the ferry to cross the river. The smog was visible but we still managed to enjoy the views. The architecture was very European but a chiming clock played some very traditional Chinese music. Chris explained the South side of the river was considered the poorer and successful businesses were confined to the North. We enjoyed the South more as it was cleaner, greener and there were a few dogs being walked. Chris and I sat in a cafe and discussed orphanage stuff but the ladies braved the Oriental Pearl tower. I had been using Gū'ér yuàn for orphanage but Chris corrected me to use Fúlì yuàn or welfare institute.

We also saw the Jin Mao Tower and with the Yu Yuan or Yu Gardens and the Nine Bends Bridge or Jiu Qu Qiao, that we went to next, were all part of the Pimsleur language learning experience. I had been learning those names and the associated phrases for weeks and now I was actually looking at them.

We did not go into Yu Gardens as we had planned to look at formal gardens in SuZhou but we did walk Nine Bends Bridge, the devils do not follow you across as they are afraid of bends. We then went to the Dragon gate mall, for a little shopping, and some green tea. Chris was surprised at how much we paid for a cup of good green tea but as he came to learn tea is one of my vices. I also brought a tin of Dragon well tea and a few souvenirs were purchased, with some fierce haggling going on. The market was as described, 'crazy'! We walked back and passed two copulating dogs, unremarkable except one was wearing a superman t-shirt, and a poodle riding a scooter, or at least sitting on the seat.



Chris found a back street restaurant and we had Gong Bao Ji Ding, one of my favorites and one I have cooked on occasion. Chris was tired as we walked for most of the day, so we headed back to the hotel. Sleep came easier but the boy racers were back in town during the night.

Crossing the roads here was an art, we became fans of GuanYin quickly in the hope she would keep a watchful eye on us.

第3天 2016年12月18日,这是我们一整天在上海。我们丰盛的早餐开始新的一天,在这里早餐让人无法认出你是普通的英国人。有鱼、水果、大蒜/五香豆,热豆浆和蟹春卷。筷子再次是首选工具!

我们离开了酒店,经过当地的公园走到静安寺,我喜欢公园,虽然它听起来有点老套,因为那里有很多的人打太极,练咏春拳和练气功。很难区分出哪位是门外汉,但看起来很美。

静安寺在构造上非常熟悉,有一个巨大的幸运玉石,不得不揉搓一下。虽被搬迁和装修但建筑令人惊叹和历史深远,大钟、 锣、 鼓和雕像都值得一看,我们点了一些香,祈求在中国安全停留。然而它是极不协调,因为看到旧建筑被如此接近的新建筑物所围绕。

我们接着搭地铁穿过市区到外滩和黄浦江,走到渡船口过河,并拍了一些家人的照片。虽可见烟雾,但我们仍然可以欣赏这里的景色。建筑是非常欧化,但一个报时钟却播放一些非常传统的中国音乐。克里斯解释说,河的南边被认为是较贫穷的,成功的企业只限于北方。我们比较喜欢南边,因为南边较干净,较环保,有些人在那里遛狗散步。克里斯和我坐在一家咖啡馆,讨论孤儿院的事情,但我太太与女儿去爬东方明珠塔。我一直称呼孤儿院,但克里斯纠正我应该称呼福利院。

我们也一一参观金茂大厦,豫园和九曲桥,那些地方是我在皮姆斯勒语言学习经验得知的,我已经学习这些名称和相关的短语数周,现在我实际上看着他们。当我们已计划去看看苏州的正式园林后,我们并没有进入豫园,可是我们走了九曲桥,因为他们害怕弯曲,所以这样就不会被魔鬼们跟着。我们接着去了龙门商场,买了一点东西和一些绿茶。克里斯非常惊讶我们付多少钱在一杯好绿茶上,但他會越来越知道茶是我的癖好。经过一些激烈的讨价还价后我带了一罐龙井茶和几件纪念品,市场正如所描述的疯狂!我们走了回去,经过了两只正交配的狗,没人注意到那两只狗,除了注意到有只狗穿着超人的T恤,和一只贵宾狗(狮子狗)好像骑着摩托车,其实它是坐在座位上。

克里斯找到了一家后街的餐厅,我们点了宫宝鸡丁,我的最爱之一,有时候我也会做。我们走了一整天,克里斯也累了,因此我们回到酒店。很容易就睡着了,但那男赛车手在夜里又回到市区。

穿过这里的道路是一门艺术,我们很快地成为观音的粉丝,希望她会留意我们。

Day 2 was the 17th December 2016

Day 2 was the 17th December 2016 and we arrived at PuDong International airport early morning and there were few people there so the 'foreigners' queue was short. It still took a long time as our passports were scrutinized closely and our luggage took a while to appear. We were of course tired, so it seemed even longer! But with a stamp in our passports we left arrivals to be met by Chris, who immediately made us feel welcome.

We were put in a taxi and driven into Shanghai, as with many of the vehicles we traveled in it smelled of cigarette smoke and the heater was on. The journey seemed long and there was a lot of traffic on the road, I tried to concentrate on the view which became increasingly built up  and the roads were rough with lots of lanes and roadworks.

Eventually we arrived at the Yan'An hotel and were dropped with our luggage and Chris guided us inside. After check in we discussed our next move and after having my Mandarin corrected we went to the room for a rest and to unpack.

我们需要休息 Wǒmen xūyào xiūxí - we need to rest

The room had two single beds, which for three was obviously one short, They were swiftly pushed together to create one big one and we showered and had a little xiūxí.

We had planned to see the Shanghai Acrobatic Group in the evening, so we left the hotel and walked into town. The western fascia was all too familiar and Shanghai's reputation for being a westernized version of China was immediately obvious. It was also decked out with Christmas decorations, something I had not expected. Having wandered around and eventually found the venue it was closed, so after a little searching we found the box office and secured tickets and the time for the next performance.

To get to the auditorium we need to go through an art gallery and managed to see some terrific art and a terracotta warrior with a Santa hat on! The show was terrific and it had a special resonance with our daughter who is a keen gymnast. There was also some magic and some slapstick comedy and the audience were very participatory and enthused by the live action.












We left very happy and made our way back to the hotel via a local restaurant, where we had some barley tea and a good meal to end the day. Our daughters crash course in using chopsticks began and by the time our heads hit the pillows we were happy to be in China.

Of note was firstly the pollution and secondly the road outside the hotel was very busy until late into the night. Once clear, it sounded like the local super car owners were using it as a test track. I did sleep but the unfamiliarity of sight and sound made it a bit of a restless night.

第二天2016年12月17 日清晨我们抵达浦东国际机场,因为外国人少所以排队等待的队伍比较短。我们的护照被严密检查及等待行李,花了我们很长的时间。当然,我们也累了,因此当时的时间似乎看起来更长!但在我们的护照入境栏盖章后我们与克里斯会合,他立即让我们感到备受欢迎。

我们坐进一辆出租车,开进上海,当进入市区途中,有许多的车辆而且夹杂有种香烟和加热器开启的味道。车程仿佛很长且很多车辆行驶在道路上,我试着专注在越来越多的景物,迎面而来的却是許多不平整的车道及道路工程。

我们终于到达了延安饭店,并卸下我们的行李,克里斯带我们进到饭店里面。在办妥入住后,我们讨论下一步的行动以及纠正了我的普通话后,我们回去房间休息,并解开我们的行李。

我们需要休息

房间里有两张单人床,我们有三个人显然短少了一张床,我迅速地将床推在一起变成一张大床,我们洗了澡,稍作一点休息。

在晚上我们已计划去看上海杂技团表演,所以我们离开酒店,走进市区。西方的脸孔都太熟悉了和老早就西化的上海立即浮现在眼前。它也妆点着圣诞节气氛,还有一些我没想到的东西。我们四处逛逛,最后发现那地方还关着,所以稍微找了一下,最后我们找到售票处、买了门票和确认下一场演出的时间。

到观众席前,我们必须经过一个艺术画廊,那里可以看到一些极好的艺术和一个兵马俑战士戴着圣诞老人的帽子!表演是非常棒,由于我们的女儿是一个热衷体操的运动员,所以表演更让她有特殊的共鸣,表演内容还有一些魔术和一些喜闹剧,观众也非常参与和热衷现场的演出。

我们非常高兴地离开,回到酒店前经过一家当地餐馆,在那里我们喝一些茶和享用美好的晚饭,并且结束这一天的行程。我们女儿的筷子速成课程也从这儿开始,到睡觉前为止我们在中国都很开心。

首先值得注意的是污染,其次酒店外的道路直到深夜都很繁忙。曾经一次非常清晰听到,听起来就像当地的超跑车主正在测试他的跑车。我睡了,但不熟悉的景象和声音使我感觉那是有点不安的夜晚。